Hiking in Georgia (TCT), Map GPX-File-Download
(with locations of overnight stays)
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Hiking in Georgia – Transcaucasian Trail Guide in 2024
The TCT, Hiking in Georgia – Upper Svaneti
1: Chvelpi – Latpari Pass, 2830m (14 km)
Into the wild Caucasus!
Our hiking adventure in Georgia begins in Chvelpi – a huge thanks to Anke and Joachim (ankeundjoachimaufreisen.de) who safely drove us through Georgia in their 4×4 van! Anticipation is huge as we grab our trekking gear and hit the trail.
The weather? Dreamy! Or too good to be true? We have no idea what awaits us: 30 degrees and bright sunshine accompany us on a five-hour, sweaty hike. 2,300 meters of altitude on a gravelly path – a real challenge that pushes us to our limits. Once we reach the Latpari Pass at 2,830 meters, a breathtaking view opens up to us. But the thin air takes its toll. And the water? We worry about whether our supplies will last.
Luckily, we find a refreshing river that replenishes our water supplies. The last section of the hike takes us along a narrow ridge. The wind howls around our ears as we carefully find our way. But the effort is worth it! Around 7:30 pm we pitch our tent at an idyllic mountain lake. The tranquility of nature, the glittering water, and the majestic mountains of the Caucasus in the evening sun – a moment we won’t forget so soon.
2: Latpari Pass – Lalkhori (18 km)
The majestic Elbrus reigns over the horizon.
After a noisy night, we’re eager to hit the trail. Our hike today is a visual feast, with a stunning mountain lake and the majestic Greater Caucasus as our companions. The towering Elbrus, Russia’s highest peak, is a constant presence. High up on the ridge, it’s just us and nature. Near Ushguli, we meet some fellow hikers. In the charming village of Davberi, the locals welcome us with open arms and delicious food.
A day along the Enguri
The afternoon unfolds along the majestic Enguri River. Hiking above its banks, we’re treated to panoramic views of the winding waterway. Georgia’s alpine meadows, bursting with vibrant flora, provide a feast for the senses, especially with our new companion, a faithful white shepherd dog.
Our path suddenly vanishes into an overgrown thicket. Thanks to our digital map, we find our way to Lalkori. Without it, we’d be lost in this wilderness. In Lalkori, we celebrate our adventure with a cold beer (8 Lari). A short walk later, we check into a cozy guesthouse (40 Lari).
3: Lalkhori – Adishi (19 km)
Sweat is already stinging our eyes as we gaze up at the rugged Chkhunderi Pass (3036 m). But first, we enjoy the peace and the view of the Schchara glacier, while our faithful dog accompanies us.
Thrilling river crossing on horseback
Once at the top, we are overwhelmed by the beauty of the landscape. Before starting our descent, a challenge awaits us: the raging Adishi glacier river. But a young man rescues us with his offer: for 30 Lari per person, we can ride his horses across the river. An unforgettable adventure.
Once we reach the other side, we fortify ourselves in a small birch forest. The last few kilometers to Adeshi take us along the river. In Elisabeth and Nino we find warm hosts who spoil us with delicious local food. But Stefan feels unwell and has a cold. The weather is supposed to get worse. In the evening we realize that we have to go to Mestia to get medicine.
4: Adishi – Mestia (30 km)
The smell of freshly baked bread lures us into Nino’s cozy kitchen. While we are having breakfast, the hostess organizes a taxi for us to Mestia. We are really looking forward to a day of rest! Stefan is still feeling very under the weather. The journey in an old Pajero is an adventure in itself. The bumpy road winds along the roaring Mulkhura River.
Mestia – the new Mecca for mountain hikers in Georgia
After an hour and a half we reach Mestia, a picturesque mountain village surrounded by high peaks. We find a cozy room in the LEMI hotel and relax. Later we explore the village and stock up on provisions. It is amazing how well developed the infrastructure is here. Nevertheless, it is advisable to have cash in small bills with you. This small town is the starting point for hiking in Georgia. Many hikers start from here doing the Mestia-Ushguli-Trek. During our stay we see a large stage with posters for the “Svaneth Film Festival“. Guest speakers such as Reinhold Messer appear here. Tomorrow we start our next stage adventure rested and well prepared.
To be honest, the decision to take a taxi was very difficult for us! In retrospect, it was the right decision because it meant Stefan had a day of rest and we could stay on the Transcaucasian hiking trail. This section only has a few meters of elevation. To get there, you have to hike 30 km on the TCT towards Mestia. Expect to walk for around 9 to 10 hours.
5: Mestia – Guli Pass, 2961m (12 km)
At 8:30 am we leave Mestia and hit the track, with the Gulli Pass in our sights. The sun is shining from the sky, but the climb through the dense bush forest is challenging. At midday we finally reach the hut and treat ourselves to a break. Here we meet numerous day hikers who are enjoying the view. Many of the hikers want to go to the Koruldi Lakes. These are known as one of the most beautiful lakes in Georgia. However, we stay on our path and turn west. A few snow fields and small streams line our way. Despite Stefan’s cold, we manage to conquer the Gulli Pass (2954 m) together. The sky quickly darkens and we pitch our tent just in time before the first rain shower. With a view of the mighty Ushba (4710 m), we enjoy our small achievement.
6: Guli Pass – Mazeri (12 km)
It’s time to start the stove. The liter of water for two coffees and cereals is heated in a minute with our MSR Raptor. A warm mug in our hand and our eyes are on the misty Ushba. We are deeply impressed! The wet tent fabric sticks to our hands as we pack up our things. The night was very windy and it rained like there was no tomorrow. The descent is exhausting, but the view makes up for all the effort. Down in the valley we discover an abandoned settlement. A small, weathered church and some ruins tell of a time long gone.
Having fun with Luca and the locals
We find refuge from the rain in a rustic wooden hut built by Luca, a young Georgian. We chat at length over a cup of coffee and, inspired by a language app, we fortify ourselves in Mazeri and continue on our way. The Murkvam guesthouse is a real treasure. The hostess welcomes us warmly and her husband starts singing a traditional Georgian song. Stefan in his red costume and with an old saber is the eye-catcher of the evening. An unforgettable experience.
7: Mazeri – Kichkhuldashi (25 km)
The alarm goes off, we get ready and go down the old wooden stairs to the living room. As usual, a hearty breakfast awaits us. After a warm farewell to our hosts, we set off to tackle today’s stage.
Just behind the farm, the path winds steeply through the dense forest. The treetops provide us with shade and we breathe in the fresh mountain air. After a strenuous climb, we reach a small clearing that offers us a fantastic view. We continue along a narrow ridge. Below us, a mountain stream meanders through the valley. In the deserted village of Etseri, we look for a comfortable bench under a mighty walnut tree and fortify ourselves with our provisions. A wonderful break.
Strengthened and full of energy, we continue our hiking in Georgia. The Transcaucasian Trail takes us over hill and dale, crossing small streams and meadows again and again. We meet Slovakian hikers and enjoy a break together. The afternoon takes us up a few more meters and back down into the valley. Abandoned villages and lonely farms are evidence of earlier settlement.
Towards the evening, after a good 25 km, we reach an old farm. Two angry dogs bark at us, but with calm and patience we manage to get around them. After a long hike, we finally put up our tent and end the day with a warm meal.
8: Kichkhuldashi – Utviri-Pass, 2711m (18 km)
The morning sun wakes us up early. A challenging stage of almost 20 kilometers lies ahead. The path winds through the villages of Tsaleri, Latsumba and finally Nakra. In Nakra we had hoped for a short rest, but all the shops are closed. Disappointed, we continue on our way.
Suddenly the path has disappeared
There is a steep climb ahead of us. The heat is oppressive and our strength is slowly waning. We look for a shady spot to take a quick breather. I look at the map by chance and am taken aback because our location is not where it should be! The original path no longer exists or is completely overgrown. The navigation app (OsmAnd app) shows us the path a good 300m away. We decide to take an adventurous shortcut. The dense undergrowth is a problem for us, but the challenge spurs us on. After what feels like an eternity, we finally reach the path again.
Once at the top, we wash off the dirt and sweat in the stream and cool our sore skin. Our destination for the night, an old shepherd’s place, is not far away. When we put up our tent, we are overwhelmed by the beauty of the landscape. The exertion of the day is forgotten.
9: Utviri-Pass – Khaishi (29 km)
The first light penetrates the tent canvas at half past four. A new day in the mountains begins, I crawl out of the tent with my camera! Before we set off, we point our camera at the breathtaking spectacle: deep below us, clouds are moving across the valley, while we are sitting up here in the bright sunshine.
Today we have a long stage of 28 kilometers. Our goal is the Utviri Pass (2711 m). The path winds through the green mountain landscape and is barely visible in places. The vegetation layer is very thin up here. With a keen eye we can see trail markers in the distance.
The descent takes us down a forest gravel road into the Kvemo Marghi valley. Small streams cross our path and offer a welcome cooling off. Kilometer after kilometer we approach our destination. The last kilometers on the gravel road are long and exhausting. We hope in vain for a ride.
With tired legs we finally reach Khaishi and look for a small restaurant. After this long hike we treat ourselves to a well-deserved break.
Final thoughts
A big thank you to everyone who supported us on our journey and while hiking in Georgia! We are especially grateful to Anke and Joachim, whose support made it possible for us to get started! Svaneti impressed us with its diversity and beauty. These experiences will always stay with us and inspire us to new adventures.
Stefan & Claudia
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